On summer weekends, this city sleeps all day and comes alive at night. The humid, hot air is enough to make a person not want to move. But at night, the breeze picks up and people hit the streets.
Spotlights display French, Neogothic and Colonial facades of architectural masterpieces. The street lamps light up the plazas and walkways creating public parks at night, occupied by lovers nestled in each others laps. Street performers gather hoards of people of all ages.
As I wandered these streets, the sound of tango could be heard in the distance from San Martin Plaza at midnight. I walked over to witness a swath of dancers, young and old, gracefully moving together in the most subtle yet sexy dance I have ever seen. I kept following different pairs with my eyes throughout an entire song, but the most enjoyable to witness were the couples in their seventies that knew every single movement of his or her partner. I could sense that they knew eachother´s movements better than any other couples on the dance floor. Even still, two girls about eight years in age took to the floor together and carried an attitude that they had been dancing tango for years.
The stroll continued to Belgrano street through neighborhoods called Nueva Cordoba and Guermes. Guermes has a bohemian vibe to it, and on the weekend nights a market called the Paseo de Artisanos packs in vendors selling their unique local artistic wares. Yerba Mate accoutrements and beautiful leatherwork were some of the unique items I drooled over as they were the best I had seen in Argentina so far on this trip. Past the market on Belgrano Ave were art shops tucked away behind courtyard entrances. Antique shops were packed with people digging through old coins. Restaurant after restaurant was packed full of twenty and thirty-somethings.
I rounded the corner onto Estrada and entered the posh part of town. People dressed to the nines filling restaurant after restaurant for blocks.
From there, I followed the diagnol mainstreet down to Paseo del Buen Pastor, one of the most interesting cultural art galleries and performance centers in the city. I strolled the lit walkways and watched people sip martinis and families sprawl out on the grassy waterside areas. Earlier in the evening there was an outdoor tango performance and it was evident the crowd was lingering and enjoying the atmosphere.
Cordoba at night enstilled in me a respect and love of this city. The travelers I have met here have extended there stay because there is a lot of interesting this going on here. This is a great place to study Spanish if you are going to be in Argentina for a while. And if you can´t handle the 15 million people, fast-paced vibe of Buenos Aires this is a great alternative.